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  • Writer's pictureEd Chang

Crafting a bi-fold wallet

Updated: Jun 15, 2021

From hide to finished product, this is only my second start-to-finish leather project. Organization and precision is key here!

My first project was a custom pair of sneaker kit shoes, also a part of my current EDC (everyday carry) kit and this wallet build is meant to match.

“This design is the exact same design I personally use as part of my EDC kit–organized and a place for all I need.”

An evolution from the original pattern with extended space between the card slots for easier access. The other change is burnishing the inside of each pocket to help bill and card insertion. This decision inadvertently adds some complication and extra steps.

Challenges and solutions.

The real trick of this particular build is the segmented burnishing. I cannot burnish all the pieces at once since some panels need to be glued together and certain edges. First I had to map out the bits that will be glued and the edges that come together and burnish in stages as the build comes together.

The second difficulty is the continuous stitch that goes from the top of the card slot and bill pocket around to the outside and bottom edge of the wallet; specifically stitching a consistent pattern. Also the double edge sword of saddle stitching is being able to tie a little knot in each stitch to ensure any single break in the stitch will not be catastrophic like a machine lock stitch.

All together I've finished six bifold wallets now and have refined my process and organization. Here's a timelapse video of my first build.

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